By World War II, cheese production in Wales had nearly ceased; run out of business by large cheese making factories in England. Fortunately for us, there has been a revival of old ways by a new generation of cheese makers. They have saved Caerphilly (the only traditional Welsh cheese still made) from the factory-made processed form it had become in England to its original farmhouse character. Now, they are creating other fine cheeses such as Red Dragon, also known as Y-Fenni. This smooth, firm, tasty Cheddar is made with Welsh brown ale and mustard seeds. Red Dragon is a buttery and spicy cheese with plenty of bite, but is not too hot. Not only do the mustard seeds give Red Dragon its marvelous flavor, but also its texture. The brown ale makes the cheese moist and tangy. Red Dragon is aged for three months, made from cow's milk and is vegetarian. Serve as a table cheese or melted on toast with dark ale or try a Shiraz, if you prefer wine.

• Made from pasteurized cow's milk.


• Photo depicts whole 3 lb. form of cheese.